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A Medium Isn't What It Used to Be
If an old "Medium" from years ago feels smaller than a new one, you're not imagining it. Vanity sizing — also called size inflation — is the practice of assigning smaller size labels to larger garments so shoppers feel good about the number on the tag. Over decades, the body measurements behind a given label have crept upward, and the result is sizing chaos online.
What Vanity Sizing Actually Is
Vanity sizing breaks the link between a size label and a fixed measurement. A label like "8" or "M" was once meant to map to specific body measurements. With size inflation, brands quietly enlarge the garment behind that label while keeping the flattering number — so today's "8" can be measurably larger than yesterday's.
It's a marketing decision, not a manufacturing one. The garment didn't need to be bigger; the label was chosen to please.
Why Brands Do It
- It flatters the shopper. A smaller number on the tag feels better and nudges a purchase.
- It differentiates. Some brands deliberately size "generous" to court a particular customer.
- There's no rule stopping it. In the US, the old standardized sizing specification was withdrawn in 1983, leaving each brand free to define its own sizes. Without a shared standard, labels drift.
Why It Wrecks Online Fit
In a store you can try things on, so vanity sizing is just a curiosity. Online, it's a real problem:
- Your "usual size" is meaningless across brands — a Medium here is a Large there.
- Old reference points fail — what you wore five years ago doesn't map to a new label.
- It fuels bracketing — uncertain shoppers order multiple sizes to hedge.
This is the core reason sizes differ so much between labels, which we cover in Why Clothing Sizes Are Different Between Brands.
How to Shop Around It
- Ignore the label, use the measurements. Compare your body to each brand's chart, not your "usual size."
- Measure yourself and keep your numbers handy — see How to Measure Yourself for Clothes.
- Read fit notes and reviews for "runs small / large" signals.
- Lean on a recommendation that maps your real measurements to a specific product, sidestepping the label game entirely.
Where YourSizer Fits
Vanity sizing makes the label unreliable, so the answer is to recommend from the body and the product, not the tag. YourSizer maps a shopper's real measurements to a specific garment's fit, giving a confident size no matter how a brand labels it. See it for brands, shoppers, or pricing.
Sources
- BoF vanity sizing history
- Statista apparel size inflation
Frequently Asked Questions
What is vanity sizing?
Vanity sizing, or size inflation, is when brands label larger garments with smaller size numbers to flatter shoppers. Over time it has made a given label — like "M" or "8" — correspond to bigger body measurements than it used to.
Why do brands use vanity sizing?
Because a smaller number on the tag flatters shoppers and can encourage purchases, and because there's no enforced sizing standard. In the US, the standardized sizing specification was withdrawn in 1983, leaving each brand to define its own sizes.
How do I deal with vanity sizing when shopping online?
Don't rely on your "usual size." Measure yourself and compare your body to each brand's specific size chart, read fit notes for "runs small/large," and use a size recommendation tool that maps your measurements to the actual product.